SplitSuit.com

…Everything For Full Ring…

Archive for the ‘The Sliderrrrrr’ Category

Planning Video

Posted by SplitSuit On August - 1 - 2010

.

*click to watch now* Poker Planning Video*click to watch now*

.
This is my video for the COTW for 2p2. My topic was planning, but I decided to meld that with default lines as well. Both are very interrelated and are necessary for progressing in poker. The planning section is necessary for creating default lines, as we need to think ahead about what could logically happen if we did playX or playZ. I also covered decision trees so we could visualize a line and figure out the EV of a default line. I also did an entire default line with AK as the hand exemplifies many of things we should be considering when playing hands.
.
While planning in poker can seem difficult, it gets much easier when we compartmentalize information. So we also talk about different things we can compartmentalize, like hand strengths, turn textures, and player types. All in all, the video took me a very long time to make, so hopefully you at least get something out of it and are able to use it to create and consider default lines moving forward.
.
DL The Poker Planning Video
.
The discussion of this video on 2p2 is here: Link
.
Enjoy!
.
*SS*

  • Share/Bookmark

Flopzilla (w/ Video)

Posted by SplitSuit On July - 5 - 2010

*click* How To Use Flopzilla Video *click*
.
So I was talking with the creator of Flopzilla the other day and wanted to find some way to get him some more customers (as I am a big believer in supporting people who make quality stuff). He said he would give a discount to anyone who buys it and mentions my name while doing so, so you pay $15 as opposed to the sticker price $25 (it should also be noted that I don’t get a single dollar for this. This is strictly a discount that the buyer gets, I get nothing in kickback). Because I wasn’t sure if many people have used the software before, I figured I would make a small video going over how to use Flopzilla so you have a jump start if you decide to buy and use it.
.

flopzilla

.
It is a very simple program that allows you to visualize how often different ranges hit different boards, and also see how certain hands/ranges will hit the flop. I use this software a ton in my post-session analysis and thought it would be helpful for most anyone playing a HE based game. So watch the video (which imo is useful even if you decide to not use the software) and if you have any questions, just fire away.
.
*click* Download Flopzilla *click*
.
Hope all is well!
.
*SS*

  • Share/Bookmark

50NL RUSH Video

Posted by SplitSuit On May - 7 - 2010

I haven’t done a free video in quite some time, so I decided to do one tonight. I did 2 tables of 50NL RUSH, and even those that don’t play RUSH should get something out of it. I rambled on about some bet sizing, some 3betting, and some various other strategic points. Overall, I ran very well (very high CB success rate), and even though I ran 2pr v set in a 3bet pot, the session went well. It is 35minutes, so enjoy!
.
Stream it now
.
Download it now
.
*SS*

  • Share/Bookmark

Poker Product – 3BALLER

Posted by SplitSuit On May - 6 - 2010

3baller



.
This is my newest product. It is a 45 minute video that goes over 3 betting. It covers the basic math (thinking about O-Range v C-Range), which HUD stats are useful and how, and also sizing considerations. We also review the composition of a good 3bet, including the players we want to abuse, the situations that work best, and also the hand textures we prefer with regards to polarized vs. depolarized 3bet ranges. If you are struggling on 3betting, or just need a refresher course to clean up some details, this video is for you!
.
The introductory price will be $29.99. This is significantly cheaper than my normal $85/hr coaching rate, and if used properly, should pay for itself (with interest!) in no time at all. You may pay via PayPal or site transfer (PS or FTP, just email me at splitsuit@gmail.com for my site info). If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask, and happy grinding!

*SS*

  • Share/Bookmark

My Poker Podcasts

Posted by SplitSuit On March - 1 - 2010

I will use this page to link to all of my podcasts. The goal is to do one a month or so, if not a couple per month. The focus of these podcasts will be to discusss the backend of playing poker, things like mental preservation and tilt control…and the other is to talk about some poker strategy. Lots of these podcasts will be multi-layered, meaning that if you dig deep, there will be lots of gems laid out for those willing to find them. Hopefully you enjoy, and if you have any questions, comments, or suggestions, please don’t hesitate to drop them =)
.
February 16 – Podcast 1 – My Poker Journey Thus Far
.
February 25 – Podcast 2 – Thoughts on Current Games and Styles
.
March 23 – Podcast 3 – The Poker Brain
.
*SS*

  • Share/Bookmark

The Tank: Hand Reading

Posted by SplitSuit On February - 14 - 2010

Poker Hand Reading

$40


This is The Tank session from 2/11/2010. In this Tank we cover hand reading for about 2 hours. We walk through hand reading preflop from nits, TAGs, and other player types from different positions and in various situations. We also talked about the various stats you can use to piece together a clear picture of a player’s range.
.
We then took it one step further and worked on hand ranging postflop. Using stat clues and player type tendencies, we figure out how a range changes throughout a hand. This Tank is great for people just starting to work on hand ranges, but also for those that need some work improving upon their skillset. Happy grinding!
.

Payment Options:

Paypal (use the “Buy Now” button above)

Poker Site Transfer (send a message below with the product in the body and I will send you shipping information)

After you have sent payment, I will ship you the link the password for you video!

(required)
(required)

 

*SS*

  • Share/Bookmark

Want Free Coaching?

Posted by SplitSuit On February - 7 - 2010

I linked up with raketakers.com (brought to you by Schwallie) to give you all a chance to get some free full ring coaching! The deal is that you get 1hr of coaching for every $2500 you hit in MGR (which really doesn’t take that long!). I don’t keep your RB or anything, you get your RB, and a free coaching session whenever you hit the next $2500 in MGR.
.
free poker coaching
.
All you need to do is click that banner, make an account, set up a RB account on your favorite site(s), and let me know when you reach $2500 in MGR. Simple! Raketakers.com offers the highest rates in the industry, great customer support, and the ability to cashout your RB at any time. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. Happy grinding!
.
*SS*

  • Share/Bookmark

Setting Up Your Poker HUD Stats

Posted by SplitSuit On January - 1 - 2010

Configuring Our Poker HUD

A HUD is a very helpful tool that is unique to online poker v live poker. It helps us visualize real-time data about our opponents. Poker is a game of information, and the more we have, the better we should be able to play. Using a HUD is something you should heavily consider, assuming you are not using one already. But information is useless unless you understand how to utilize it, so this COTW will be all about the HUD stats you can consider using and how to use them better.

(Keep in mind that this post will be more about the HUD stats that I use. We can spout out stats all day that are useful, but at the end of the day, there is limited space for stats, and we should use the stats that we are most used to and understand their usage and implementation. It should also be noted that a HUD is personal. Different player types will use different stats. I tend to LAG and you will notice lots of my stats revolve around knowing how often a player is going to fold to a play that I make. If you play TAG, you may want to consider stats that revolve around how often your opponent will call with worse hands. Experiment with stats that work well for you and use the information that allows you to optimize your time at the tables.)

Basics HUD Stats:

VPIP:

This is one of the most important stats. It tells us how often our opponents are putting money into the pot voluntarily (so posting the blind and never putting another cent into the pot that hand does not count as vpip). I personally color-code this stat so I can quickly see if someone is playing too many hands, too few, and get a quick idea on their player type.

PFR:

This stat goes hand-in-hand with VPIP (and is also color-coded). It tells us how often this player is raising preflop. This stat should be taken in consideration with VPIP. A 15% PFR might seem high, but there is a massive difference in player type between a 17/15 and a 72/15. This stat can also be heavily tied with ATS.

AF (or AFq):

This section is saved for Mpethy. I do not use either of these stats, so he is the man to talk to for them.

ATS:

A player’s attempt to steal is very important for us. It gives us an immediate idea of the player’s positional awareness which is invaluable to us. So a player might be 16/13 with an ATS of 35%, and another 16/13 with an ATS of 15%. The player with the ATS of 15% is not very positionally aware, and doesn’t weight hands played from LP the same way the higher 35% ATS player would. So it helps us frame lots of information, everything from their 3B range to their open raise range from MP2. Also remember that ATS is relative to a player’s VPIP and PFR.

ATS is very useful in that it can help us build our 3b range. Say they steal, have a high ATS and a high Foldv3B, then we can mathematically go into Poker Stove, do some O-Range v Cont-Range calculations, and figure out an optimal 3B range, size, and frequency.

3B:

This stat tells us how often a player 3 bets preflop. This stat can help us frame a players range and frequency when they 3B, but can also help us plan out whether or not we steal or make a certain play preflop (like 4b/fold/flat). Make sure to check positional stats on 3B’s, as many players are tight 3B’rs in EP/MP, but have large 3B ranges from the button and blinds (usually due to their high resteal %s).

CB:

Knowing how often a player CB’s the flop is very important to us. If a player has a high CB, say 80%+, then we know that they will often times fire a flop CB regardless of their hand value. If a player has a low CB, say 40%, and they fire a flop CB, we can assume they probably have a stronger hand value. Remember, hand values are relative, so take everything with a huge grain of salt like always.

We can sometimes use CB to help us plan hands preflop. And we can also use their CB stat, coupled with their flop action, to make better players. Say a 14/8 CB: 55% raises UTG, and we call OTB with 22 and see a HU flop. The flop is Js 6c 5h, and he checks to us. Well his CB% makes us think he would only CB his strong hands, and thus his check is weak. So we can fire a bet here and expect him to fold a large % of the time, folding out the logical AK/77/88/99/TT part of his range.

Hands:

Another very important stat. We always want to take sample size into consideration. If we have 500 hands on someone, then we can assume their stats are more “real” than someone with only 30 hands. I consider 200 hands a starting sample, 500 a decent sample size, and 1K+ a great sample size. But also remember that people do change their styles. So I only show stats from the last 3months for players. Old stats are useless if they were 11/7 but now play 16/14.

Intermediate HUD Stats:

FoldvCB:

This is a very helpful stat for us. If we know that a player is folding a ton of CB’s, then we would want to CB our air almost always, regardless of texture, because they have a tendency to just fold outright. If we know that a player has a low FoldvCB, say 35%, then we would want to VB them like a fiend, and either consider not CB-ing or throwing multiple barrels as a bluff. You can also use “CallflopCB” if you want, but that doesn’t take into consideration how often they raise CB’s, and my style is based around folds in the first place, so I use FoldvCB.

Foldv3B:

For players that resteal a lot, this stat is a must. It tells us how often this player folds when facing a 3B. This could mean that they open raised, or even that they through-called and got 3B. If I am ever going to consider a resteal, I want to check how often this player steals and then I can do some simple O-Range vs. Cont-Range calculations to see if I can make an outright profitable 3B. As the game continues to mature, expect this number to constantly get smaller. Having an 80% Foldv3B used to be standard, but now a days, most good stealers are keeping their Foldv3B down around 65%.

You can use this stat for many uses. If you are considering a squeeze, you can look a the Foldv3B of the original raiser and the through-callers. You can consider this for bluffing. You can also consider this for VB 3B sizing. If you know someone has a Foldv3B of 15%, and that they are constantly calling 3B’s regardless, then when you 3B AA you should consider using a larger size for some extra outright value. Also remember this is relative to open raise. It is pretty standard to see a 10/8 with a Foldv3B of 40%. Well that is because his O-range is so inherently strong that he is not often releasing hands when you 3B him.

FoldvTurnCB:

This lets us know how often our opponents are folding in spots that we raise preflop, CB flop, and fire the turn again. This is useful both when we are bluffing (taking advantage of light floaters with heavy turn continuance ranges) or VB-ing (taking advantage of players that rarely release a pair as the pot continues to grow). Again, you can also use “CallvTurnCB” if you are a TAG and considering going for multiple barrels with like KQ on a Qxxx board.

WTSD:

A stat I don’t personally keep on my HUD, but it certainly has usage. If you see someone has a very high WTSD, then you know that they are rarely releasing single pair hands, and they tend to get very sticky with hands they deem valuable. Make sure to keep VPIP in mind when considering this stat. A 12/10 that has a WTSD of 25% is not even close to the person playing 60/5 with a WTSD of 25%. The 12/10 has an inherently stronger range when he plays pots, and thus will show them down. The 60/5 has an inherently weaker range, yet still gets to SD a decent amount, and thus with weaker hand values.

W$@SD:

Another stat I don’t personally use in real-time. This stat tells us how often they win money when they get to showdown. This is helpful for knowing how often they are getting to SD with weak vs. strong hands. This stat should be looked at with WTSD in mind. If you see an 18/12 with a WTSD: 16% and W$@SD: 60%, then you know they are getting to SD only with the strongest hands, and usually releasing marginal stuff somewhere along the line. But if you see a 42/17 with a WTSD: 34% and W$@SD: 41%, then you should consider only VB-ing this person, and occasionally consider a “light”VB.

Advanced HUD Stats:

Blind Specific Fold & Resteal:

I am just starting to use these more often in my own game, and they are super helpful as the game becomes more aggressive in terms of stealing and restealing. I keep both the SB resteal&foldvsteal and the BB resteal&foldvsteal up now. I don’t need to keep “callvsteal” up because 100-resteal-foldvsteal = callvsteal…and again, my HUD real estate is too precious to waste on things I can calculate myself in .2 seconds. Keeping both of these stats up help me know who I should be stealing from, who I might consider avoiding, and who I need to have a plan and balanced 4B range against. It also keeps me from having to go to the pop up and waste time that might portray “I am checking your stats to consider light 4B-ing you, so just one sec while I look at some more things please.”

FoldvFlopCR:

Certainly an important stat for those that fight for pots. I always like to know if someone is only continuing with the toppest part of their range when I CR them. If they are, then I can certainly consider bluff CR-ing their CB.

This is also useful when I flop big hands. Say I flop a set but their FoldvFlopCR is 85%. Then I probably don’t want to CR them as they will fold too often. So maybe I consider a check/call flop and donk turn. Or consider a check/call flop and CR turn. Again, a line change that I never would have considered optimally unless I had the information available.

RiverCallWin%:

I love this stat. It lets me know how often they win when they call the river. Now I can’t just use this as a stand alone stat, but I can take it into consideration of the entire hand. If I take the donk line (bet flop/check turn/bet river), and know they have a very low RiverCallWin%, then I can consider maybe betting a pinch more when I am VB-ing. I also know not to bluff the rivers against this person because they will station it often.

I can certainly use this stat with things like WTSD and W$@SD. If I know they are going to SD a ton, and their RiverCallWin% is very low, then I can consider VB-ing them to death. If their RiverCallWin% is high though, I can usually infer that they are only getting to SD with the strongest of hands. So that player is unlikely to pay off a VB with a wide range of hands.

HUD Pop Up:

As you get stronger with stats and your sample sizes begin to build on certain players, you can start using your pop up to get more detailed information on your opponents. The things I check the most often:

EP PFR:

If I see someone is a 15/12 and they raise UTG, I don’t really get a great idea on their range from there. I can assume it is tight, but there is a huge difference in my play if a player has a 5% raise from UTG vs. a 11% raise from UTG. The pop up can give me a more detailed look at their “exact” range from each position. A tighter EP PFR tends to imply they have the strongest of hands and there are more IO against their range. A wider EP PFR tends to imply they have a wider range that might not offer as much in IO, and thus calling might be less ideal.

MP PFR:

Same concept as above

3B% By Position:

If a player is 14/12 and has a 3b: 3% I might not be able to draw too much from that. But if I see that person has an EP3B: 0%, MP3B: 1%, LP3B: 5% and Blinds3B: 7%, I can start to get an idea on how they are 3B-ing in general. So if this person 3B’s my steals, I can see they are probably doing it with a wider range more often than not, and can consider either 4B-ing or floating due to having more information.

3B + CB:

I don’t keep this stat on my normal HUD, but will habitually check my pop up (even before I decide to flat a 3B) to plan out whether or not I am floating lots of flops, especially with mediocre pairs. If someone is 3B-ing wide, and not CB-ing often, then I know I can float more liberally and stab when they check to me. If someone is 3B-ing wide and CB-ing like 100%, then I know I can float and raise lots of CB’s when I miss. Again, more information just helps me make better plays.

Call Open Raise:

This is a stat I am considering putting on my HUD. This helps me put someone on a more specified range when they call my open raises. If I see their COR is 5% then I know they are really only calling my open raises with pairs (22-QQ). If it is bigger, then I can see they are calling wider and wider (going from SC’s, to BBs, etc)

Correlation Between HUD Stats:

Stats can be useful on their own, but if we look at stats coupled with other stats, we can get a more valid image and more correct idea of a player. This section will look at stat correlation that I use to get a better idea of ranges, player types, and also frame a plan of action for a hand.

VPIP & PFR Gap:

I do not use AF/AFq as I have found very little usage for it in my player profiling experience. But, I get a good idea of aggression based on this gap. Say we have a player who is 15/X. If that player has relatively small gap, then I can assume that player is more aggressive. They understand open raising as opposed to open limping…they probably CB more as a result, and are probably more positionally aware. But, if that player has a larger relative gap, then I can generally assume more passivity. The player will open limp more, cold call more, and be more fit-or-fold postflop. This gap takes FR momentum theory into consideration, and has a tendency to put you on the right track for stereotyping.

But also note that I have used the word “relatively” quite a bit. Say we have two players. A 12/10 and a 42/10. Both have a PFR of 10, but they are both very different player types given the width in gap. We can also use it from a “how far is the gap” POV. Say we have a 14/10 (with a 4 point gap) and then someone who is 24/18 (a 6 point gap). Well we don’t just want to say the 14/10 is more aggressive because his gap is closer together…because in the relative sense, the 24/18 is going to be much more aggressive in general.

ATS & 3B:

Let’s take a look at two different players. One is 15/12 with an ATS: 35% and 3b: 4%. The other is a 15/12 with an ATS: 16% and 3b: 4%. Both have the same VPIP/PFR/3B%, but we notice that their ATS differ significantly. So what can we infer from this?

Well we can assume that the player with the higher ATS is more positionally aware. They understand playing lots of hands from LP v EP, and they steal as an effect of that understanding. But, we see they have the same 3B%, so why do we care?

Well we care because each of these players would be 3B-ing for entirely different reasons. Say it folds to us OTB, we steal with T9s, and the BB 3B’s us. If he is the 15/12/35/4, then he is doing so because he understands you are stealing, and is thus restealing. If the 15/12/16/4 3B’s you, it is not as likely that he is restealing. He is 3B-ing because he feels his hand is strong enough to 3B you. So his range is going to be de-polarized, and the 15/12/35/4 is going be fairly polarized more often than not. This means you can approach them both differently in respect to your 4b/flat/fold game.

ATS/Blind Specific Resteal & Foldv3B:

I personally love this one as it makes my preflop life a breeze in aggressive positional situations. Now, it may seem like a pain to look at so much at once, but it gets easier the more you do it. This correlation often times gives me an idea on their Foldv4B. We cannot really use the natural Foldv4B stat because we often times don’t have a very large sample size on how a player reacts to 4B’s, esp 4B’s in a specific situation.

So I like to use ATS and Blind Specific Resteal to see how often they will be aggressive and resteal my steal. If they have a high ATS and Resteal, then we know they are positionally aware and understand aggressive 3B-ing a steal. Now, say we have a player who is 17/15 ATS: 42% SBresteal: 9% Fv3B: 72%. I steal with 44 OTB, he 3B’s and it folds back to us. I know from his ATS that he is positionally aware and understands what I am doing. His SBresteal tells me that he understands restealing and is most likely doing this with a polarized range given the range he is using and he is OOP. And his Foldv3B is over 70%, telling me he is selective with the hands he continues with as the pot sizes gets large.

We can estimate from all of this that his 3B range is nice and wide, very bottom-side polarized, and that he will fold to a 4B more often than not. There is usually a strong correlation between Foldv3B and Foldv4B, and couple that with the width of his natural resteal range, a 4B can be a very profitable play here (as a flat call is meh in current game conditions). From here, it just becomes a simple O-Range vs. Cont-Range calculation to select the optimal size/frequency/hand range.

Limp/Call & FoldvCB:

I love using this combination of stats for isolating players. If I see a player has a Limp/Call of 80% and a FoldvCB of 80%, then you can be damn sure that I am going to isolate them with ATC. I will probably even size my raise larger because I know they are going to call a ton preflop and give it up a ton postflop. This is just printing money, and I like printing money.

We can also use this for other player types. Say someone has a Limp/Call of 72% and a FoldvCB of 45%, then I know they are calling a lot preflop, but not always just going to roll over to the CB. So I need not only change my thoughts on sizing preflop, but also change my hand range because I can no longer just rely on getting a fold on the flop a ton. Again, we can make better plays, everything from size/plan/hand range given information gleaned from stat correlation.

FoldvCB & FoldvTurnCB:

Being I play a very aggressive style, these stats together make postflop play much easier. The correlation between these two stats can make line planning, even from preflop, 90x easier. Say we have a player who has a FoldvCB: 40% and a FoldvTurnCB: 90%. This means this player has a tendency to float CB’s liberally, but only continue onwards from the turn with the strongest of their hands. This would be the type of person I would liberally double barrel as a bluff, but rarely double barrel with a TP type hand.

We can also use this when considering value lines. Say we open raise with 77 and a 20/10 3b: 2% FoldvCB: 76% FoldvTurnCB: 33% calls in position and we see a flop of J73. We CB and he calls. The turn comes a 3 and it is our action. We know that he folds to CB’s a decent amount, so when he continues, he does so with a hand that he deems as fairly strong. But we also see that once he calls the CB, he tends not to fold to double barrels. So we can make a largely sized value double barrel, say 85%PSB, in order to max value all the way down. If he had a FoldvTurnCB of 75% then I might make a smaller bet to encourage a wider part of his range to continue, or even go for a CR instead. Again, take lines that are based on more than just his VPIP and PFR.

Conclusion:

When playing, consider using stats that work well for you, and also consider how the stats interrelate so we can make more optimal decisions. Lots of these correlations I have written about I have noticed through my own post-sessions analysis of players. They are all fairly logical, and I’m sure there are hundreds that I have yet to find. Always be looking to see how you can use different stats to come up with better lines (in sizing/planning/our hand range) while playing.

Hopefully this helps a ton for those of you new to stats and HUDs. This should be a great starter point getting you away from the default HUDs. Again, poker is a game of information, so get information and process it as best as possible to make life easier and more profitable. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. And if you have your own correlations that you use, please share =)

Cliffnotes:

HUDs are good
Pick stats that work well in your own playstyle
Certain stats correlate heavily with other stats that can give us great amounts of information
Explore stat correlation on your own to find things that work for you
Enjoy and good luck!

*SS*

  • Share/Bookmark

Playing LAG: Loose Aggressive Poker

Posted by SplitSuit On December - 20 - 2009

One of the bigger things I get when I work with people is the consideration of breaking into LAG play. LAG play, for those unaware, is notation for a “loose aggressive” player. There are tremendous differences between TAG and LAG players, but the common misconceptions of LAG players are what make it, in my opinion, the most profitable style in today’s micro games.

So other than the textbook definition, what is a LAG? A LAG is simply a TAG on steroids. A LAG plays more hands, they play them more aggressive, and because of this, must be solid on more levels. It is important to emphasize this…because LAG play is NOT for everyone. If you do not have your fundamentals down, if you do not understand most spots you get into, if you cannot quickly come up with an optimal, or near-optimal, line…then LAG is not for you. If you are not a winning TAG player, there is no chance you will be a successful LAG. A LAG is a solid player that understands situations, adjustments, and the ‘secret’ ingredient that makes him successful, well-timed pressure.

Pressure is why this style is successful. When talking about pressure, it is important to note that the most amount of pressure can be placed while in position. Just the threat of putting a bet out makes most opponents play differently against us (us will now refer to LAGs), and usually in a more passive way. Because of that, LAGs will focus, even more heavily than a TAG does, on positional play. Everything is based on position to a LAG. Here is a positional heatmap by position by player type:

From SplitSuit Drop Box

(the darker the color = the more hands played)

You see LAGs focus everything on LP play, with heavy emphasis in the CO and button. This doesn’t vary at all from TAGs, as TAGs are very positionally aware and ramp up how many hands they play as they get closer to the button. But LAGs take this a step further and start adding more hands a bit sooner, and also add even more hands from the CO and button. A TAG might only steal 35%, while a LAG is constantly focused on pressuring every edge and may be stealing around 60%. This is your first step in transitioning to a LAG…you don’t just randomly jump from 13/11 to 20/18…you ease into it and get used to playing more hands, adding initially on the button, then the CO, then the HJ, etc.

The second part about pressure is actually why this style is so successful now a days, and even more so, at the micros. This is because the average player is better, and now understands not to make 200bb pots with 2nd pair…they understand folding in the SB and not over defending and getting into tough spots OOP…they understand not getting involved in too large a pot with single pairs. It is that same knowledge that allows LAGs to thrive. If players are folding at a certain threshold, then all a LAG player needs to do is pressure to that exact threshold to get folds. A LAG operates successfully in a fold-rich environment…and today’s games (where the tables have about 70% of people per table with a vpip of 15% or less) are perfect for it given the “standard threshold” players share.

Talking about players for a moment…let’s cover which tables are best. If you are playing 25% of your hands, and raising almost all of them…which tables do you think you are going to the best at? One where lots of pots are going multi-way? Or a table where lots of pots are going HU? Of course you would want the HU pots table. In a MW pot you are forced to have hands, and forced to hit hands in order to profit. In a HU pot you can apply more pressure, win with no hand, and get involved more often. Because of this you want tighter tables. I know many players that don’t play during the day-time because the games are filled with nitRegs and 24 tabling HUDbots…but why is this bad? If those players are just going to set-mine and thus fold 85% of the time postflop, why not take advantage of that? If they are going to play super face-up…why not abuse them for that? I prefer very tight tables when I am LAGing…something like 5%-15% table vpip and no real pressure spots.

Having other pressure spots on your table will make your LAG life hell. These pressure spots are people who don’t just roll over and play dead postflop, good shortstackers, and aggressive 3b’rs. Why? Good shortstackers will adjust and reship on you often preflop, esp when you steal against them. They get enough folds from your range if you have a 60% ATS (your O-range is 60% of hands, your C-range is like 10% of hands, so they get folds 83% of the time and make mega-profit from you). The aggressive 3b’rs will ruin your flow at the table, show other people that you aren’t invincible (which then creates a table dynamic where even 12/10 nitTAGs are trying to 3ball you), and put you in tough spots. The other player type will just float you often postflop (either in a value or float/bluff way) and will not just roll over to your aggression. Remember, a LAG operates best in a fold-rich environment…if a table isn’t giving that to you, then get off it and find any of another 400 tables that will.

One of the things that helped me play LAG was looking into my TAG game. I found the situations that made me shudder while playing TAG. If I faced a raise on a certain board, and hated life because of it, I noted it. If I hated certain turn cards, I noted it. While transitioning into a LAG I took all of these spots that made TAG-me shudder…and applied them. If I as a TAG, say 13/12, hated a certain spot…why wouldn’t 90% of other TAGs feel the same way? This helped give me a framework for looking at pressure situations and learning how to explore new ones while implementing them into my own game.

* * * * * *

I’ve mentioned a few times that fundamentals are way more important while playing LAG. In saying that, it should also be noted that your misunderstandings will be amplified, as the situation will arise more often. So if you CB poorly, then seeing that spot more often is going to burn you more money. If you don’t double barrel well, then you are going to be less profitable postflop. Again, if you cannot play a TAG style well, then adding more spots postflop is just going to murder your WR.

Let’s talk about postflop for a minute. There are some very important things to consider when moving into LAG play and playing more than just a preflop game. We already talked about where to add more hands when playing LAG (LP) and we do that in an effort to steal more preflop and also set ourselves up to be in position for postflop decisions. Of course, unless we are on the button, we will not always be in position…but poker is all about taking high probability set ups…so do your best to get that button.

The big thing I suggest to people is playing LAG preflop and TAG postflop. A TAG game postflop should be very solid at CB-ing, have a decent handle on dubbing, and should understand VB-ing well. A lot of people think that LAG play means you have to play like a damn nutball postflop…running complex bluffs, VB-ing 3rd pair, and mastering the over-bet shove. This is pure poppycock, and again, another reason why people play poorly against LAGs. Keep your standard postflop game while LAGing, but pay more attention to pressure.

It should go without saying that your range postflop will be inherently weaker. If you are playing 40% of hands from the button, you will not be hitting stronger hands very often. Your most standard hand strength will be air, then weak 1 pairs…so you have to be able to play these hands well. It should also be noted that your value hands should actually get paid a bit better, but not in a crazy way. It is more standard that if you run LAG in 6max that you can get crazy value with something like KJ on a K6344 board from any pair….but in FR, people still maintain their hand strength thresholds. What I mean by this is that people have an ingrained threshold of pot size per hand strength. They understand that they want to make AI pots with nut hands, maybe 40bb pots with 1pair, maybe 90bb with 2pr on scary boards, etc (these are just random numbers…the real numbers are different and change by player type).

These thresholds are actually what allow LAGs to have easy lives postflop. Once a LAG understands where a players threshold is with TP, then postflop is a breeze. Say we are playing against PAUL555, and PAUL555 doesn’t make a pot bigger than 35bb with TPTK. This means, as a LAG, we are focused on making, or threatening, a 36bb pot everytime we bluff. Why should we make a 40bb pot? Or threaten a 55bb pot if we only need the pot size to be/look like 36bb? Exposure is very important while LAGing…it is important while bluffing to look like you are exposing a large part of your stack and creating or threatening a large pot. A big leak of new LAGs is that they over expose themselves and would make a 65bb pot against PAUL555 as a bluff, when that is just too large and a waste of time and money. Pay attention to your exposure through your betsizing and planning of the hand, and exploit a players threshold to apply correct pressure.

* * * * * *

Common misconceptions:

People hear loose and assume bad, they hear tight and assume good. Do not confuse a LAG with a spewy loose player. A LAG is a finely tuned machine that understands pressure, position, and adjustment…a fish is a player that is too loose and doesn’t have an off switch. It is actually this misconception that helps LAGs make money. People will call your 3b’s OOP with hands like AJ and 44 because they think you are crazy and that you are going to spew a stack if they hit. Remember this…it is important.

People also assume your PF range is wider than it is, especially from EP. Look back to the heatmap…do you see a high concentration of hands being played from EP? Be aware of position, don’t put yourself OOP if you can help it.

People also assume that you do not adjust. They think if you have an ATS of 80% over the first 30 hands at the table that you will remain that way the entire session. If the table starts approaching you differently, it is time to change what you are doing. You can do this by tightening up and letting your image play for you, by out aggressing, or by leaving the table.

* * * * * *

Some last minute notes on getting into LAG play. Some stats will change dramatically from TAG to LAG. Your VPIP and PFR will of course get looser and higher. You will notice your flopCB% will drop. If you were CBing 80% of the time as a LAG you would get killed in the longrun. Remember, people adjust to a certain extent, especially while the pot is smaller. So they will call your CB’s a little more liberally on certain board textures. You will also notice that your fold23b% will drop as well. You are stealing more, and it is important that you learn how to defend better when you get 3b. This will be my a mixture of 4b-ing, flatting and using position, and/or leaving the table.

I cannot stress enough how important position is. I’ve seen countless players try to get into LAG and they start by raising 22+/ATB/someSC from EP and go nuttier from there. They try to call a bunch of raises with SCs/SGs/Ax hands. These are people that are missing the big picture. Set yourself up for good profitable spots preflop, and we do that by using position with good playable hands or using spots where we can grab position.

Do not make mistakes! Easier said than done, but if you are making mistakes, your WR is going to suffer quickly. Because these spots show up so much more often, it is imperative that you either have few/no mistakes…or that you are very quick at finding and patching them. You will make less mistakes if you focus on position, VB-ing well, thinking through ranges, and exposure. LAG is still super simple poker because it is still poker. You just play a few more hands, apply a little more pressure, and make a little more money.

Good luck getting into LAG. Like usual, this is a guide and more of a “here are things to think about” rather than “here are the exact ranges and exact plays to use”. I apologize for those that will read this and hate that I didn’t make charts and such…but I assure you…put in some hours and you will grow a ton more from it. Best of luck on the tables, and stay off mine =)

Cliff Notes:

1.) learn to be a solid TAG before you start playing LAG
2.) position is 90x more important
3.) look for spots to apply pressure
4.) evaluate and adjust always
5.) leave the table if conditions become less ideal

(for those interested, I made a video showing a little of this LAG playstyle…Enjoy!)

*SS*

  • Share/Bookmark

New Video – LAG@25NL

Posted by SplitSuit On November - 23 - 2009

LAG Video 25NL

It has been awhile since I made a video, so I decided to make a LAG video at 25NL today. I ran 30/25, 3b: 14% and ATS: 76%. The video goes over pressure spots, some 3b-ing, some talk about when to lay off, and examining our image to make optimal plays. This is a precursor to the “TAG 2 LAG” article I will be writing for the COTW in a few weeks. Enjoy the video, and any questions/comments are welcome!

*SS*

  • Share/Bookmark

Subscribe Today!

  • Join my mailing list for updates and free stuff!

    E-mail:

    Subscribe Now!
    Unsubscribe